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- By Alex Taylor and Charlotte Gallagher
- BBC culture reporters
Image source, fake images
British models Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss, photographed in 1999, have been mainstays of London Fashion Week since the early days.
Stars pose to celebrate the 40th anniversary of London Fashion Week (LFW).
The biannual event, originally the brainchild of public relations guru Lynne Franks, and now a staple of the global fashion calendar, launched in 1984.
This year’s event, the youngest of the big five fashion weeks, brings glitz and glamor to London until Tuesday.
But British Fashion Council president David Pemsel has said economic challenges are putting pressure on the industry.
Speaking to BBC Breakfast, Pemsel said the cost of living crisis, interest rates and Brexit were creating difficulties for designers and fashion houses.
However, he insisted the industry remains “resilient”.
“(Our) quality is really respected in the industry – we have phenomenal designers who make amazing things,” he said.
The anniversary edition of LFW will host 67 designers across 46 catwalks and 36 events, organizers say, with collections from many more up-and-coming designers expected to appear offline.
Star attractions include Preen, Richard Quinn, Simone Rocha, Harris Reed, 16Arlington and Emilia Wickstead.
Harry Lambert, the man behind Harry Styles’ makeover and Emma Corrin’s wardrobe, will also cause a stir.
Following tradition, Burberry will close the official program on Monday with the Daniel Lee collection.
Strike a pose (durable)
On Thursday night, some of London’s best-known landmarks, including Covent Garden, the London Eye and the Royal Opera House, were illuminated green to mark the start of LFW’s anniversary celebrations.
Over the decades, LFW has showcased established and emerging British talent, from supermodels Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss, to iconic designers such as Matthew Williamson, Stella McCartney and the late Alexander McQueen.
Lynne Franks, who served as the inspiration for Absolutely Fabulous character Edina Monsoon, says she pushed for a London fashion week out of frustration, with the intention of giving the city a dedicated space to promote her craftsmanship, in line with other fashion capitals such as New York. , Milan, Paris and Tokyo.
“We weren’t on the international calendar at all,” he told the Evening Standard. “I thought, if they can do it, why can’t we?”
Although smaller than its peers in Milan, Paris and New York, which typically feature international fashion giants, London is still known for its unique style and boldness.
“It’s much more innovative,” Betty Jackson, designer of the first LFW, told the BBC. “I think we have the best ideas, really. And we’re not afraid.
“I think a lot of the inspiration comes from young people wearing things on the street and using them in a different way,” he said.
The British Fashion Council’s NewGen initiative continues to support the next generation of designers, while Friday’s Central Saint Martins MA show provides a platform for London’s art school’s brightest young stars.
Memorable moments from London Fashion Week
Shalom Harlow’s Spray Painted Dress (1999)
Image source, Victor Virgil
In one of the most visually stunning moments among McQueen’s countless runway shows, two robots spray painted a dress worn by model Shalom Harlow.
Speaking to the Metropolitan Museum of Art about the experience, Harlow said she did not directly discuss the piece with the designer before the show.
“I like to think I wanted to interfere as little as possible and allow myself to have the most genuine and spontaneous experience possible,” the model told the Met.
Queen Elizabeth II joins Wintour in the front row (2018)
Image source, fake images
Fashion royalty learned the truth when Queen Elizabeth II joined Anna Wintour at British designer Richard Quinn’s show in 2018.
The late queen, then 91 years old, appeared, all smiles, dressed in a turquoise jacket.
Writing a tribute article for Vogue Following Elizabeth II’s death in 2022, Wintour said the late queen was “very delighted to be there, telling me how she had appeared in a fashion show long before she became queen.”
He continued: “He said it with joy and humor that traveled around the room, lighting it up: an everyday occurrence for His Majesty, unforgettable for the rest of us.”
Alexander McQueen dances down the catwalk (1997)
Image source, Alexis Duclos
The late fashion designer lit up LFW countless times with his creativity, but in 1997 he enjoyed his rare moment on the runway.
Dressed in a casual polo shirt and jeans, a counterpoint to his dramatic fashion creations, the beloved British designer danced down the catwalk at the end of his show to enthusiastic applause from his models and the audience.
Hussein Chalayan’s Coffee Table Dress (2000)
Hussein Chalayan is famous for his experimental designs, but none have captured the world’s imagination like his coffee table dress.
As the models walked through the living room, one stood atop the coffee table which, in a dazzling moment of industrial design, transformed into a wooden crinoline skirt when she lifted it.
Despite its theatrical tone, the show contained a serious underlying message. Inspired by war refugees, the interplay between furniture and clothing drew parallels with those forced to flee their homes, carrying their worldly possessions on their backs.
Prince Struts (2007)
Image source, fake images
Singer Prince has made a career based on extravagance, his music and his fashion choices, so in some ways his surprise appearance at LFW makes a lot of sense. Not that anyone expected it.
The star, who was in the capital to play the 02 Arena, snuck in virtually unnoticed before Matthew Williamson’s show in 2007, only to start singing from the front row, before jumping on stage to perform her song Chelsea Rodgers. According to El Telégrafo, There was a method to his madness: the song was dedicated to his eponymous girlfriend at the time… a model who happened to be a fan of Williamson.
Fashion show, concert, immersive love letter… or a mix of all three? Either way, very Prince.
London Fashion Week contributes £21 billion to the UK economy and employs more than 900,000 people, according to the British Fashion Council’s latest industry report.
Last year, womenswear sales were estimated at £30.9bn, while menswear sales were estimated at £15bn, Mintel figures show.
Prime Minister Rishi Sunak this week praised the sector for its contribution and reiterated its value to the UK economy. “It generates a huge amount for the coffers and has global resonance in terms of creativity and reputation in this country,” he said. the evening standard.
“It is an opportunity to reach new markets, to remind everyone of the power of fashion week and the power of the companies that participate,” he added.
However, McKinsey State of Fashion Report warns of “strong economic headwinds” next year, with fashion houses facing “moderate economic growth, persistent inflation and weak consumer confidence.”
Sunak frustrated fashion industry leaders by scrapping duty-free shopping when he was chancellor in 2021.
He has maintained politics as prime minister, despite repeated calls of the British Fashion Council, the bosses of several big fashion brands and retailers to reinstate the tax exemption.